This was my first Longer customer returned lk1 and I though It was gonna be ok, boy was I wrong.
The recieved condition
Hot-end had broken off tip and the insert was also damaged and broke off
No tools and unit looked like it had a few prints on it
The gantry was loose as well as the bottom plate rollers
Overall this unit looked like it was man handled or gruella hands
Repair and test :
Replaced the hotend with an updated Titanium Heat Break Thermal Barrel
after trying a couple prints it became evedient the hot end couldn’t get the temp above 190. Further inspection revealed the thermal and heater were new. I ended up running a new heater block and pushing the wires straight through to the main board in order to get the temps up to 220. It looked like I was there.
I figured this would be a good and cheap upgrade to the hot end. After assembly the test prints failed. I even went as far as replacing the complete hotend again only to realize the filament was not being delivered. Turns out the main board driver could not power the servo strong enough to push out the material. At this point I had to conclude the original owner was an idiot and did serous damage to the unit. (i use the term loosely because sometimes I qualify)
Decision Time: Well the time waisted on this makes it a bust out and the replacement mainboard is 70 bucks so Forgeta bout it.
Now to get something out of this unit and the decision is—–Replace the mainboard with a duet wifi control board. (60 smakers) This changes the dynamics of the game because of the capability and wireless connection. So here goes
First you have to mount the board , physical mount, I placed it where the old lk1 board was, then wire it up. At this point it’s time to get a real lesson in Arduino programming because you have to update the code on the duet to current version and also set it up to run on the LK1.
Here are some files you will need and get ready to stress out because if your running a microcrap os it’s a bitch. serial port configuration for one thing, if you get lucky and win finds the board look to heaven, if not consider a different computer
Essentially what your doing is putting the duet into bootloader mode and connecting through the win comport and transmitting the .bin file to the board. This will give the duet a operating system to run
This is where we wind up, a beautiful interface that is connected to the host computer via ip & WiFi
intial setup using online config tool
first run was crazy, only had z movement
step one check heaters
ran M303 H0 S60 to heat and calibrate the bed Success!
ran M303 H1 S 200
The duet has 3 wire endstops the 3v is not used on the board the outboard wires are used not the middle M119 in prontoface shows endstop status
The upgrade is moving along but the homing causes the unit to act like an core xy setup. when I home either of the axis’s the machine lifts the z then repositions x then drops z
This is a sidebar to explain the end stops for the Lk1 and duet
As mentioned above the wiring on the duet requires the use of the outboard pins of the 3pin connector, thus requiring changing out the connectors, it’s just not possible to use the original 2 pin from the lk1.
Then the config file needs to reflect (active low) for the 3 axis’s
Referance before you start your duet installduet-install
Location of plug-in files for Duet Web Control
Convert stl to gcode
Step 1. Slicer Software
You need to install slicer software on your PC. While installing or after installing it ask for file types that are support on the slicer. Chose Arduino support, Stl, and gcode support but you are free to select as your need.
There are many different slicer software in the market. You can find many free slicer software with great features.
- Ultimaker Cura
- Simplify 3D
Step 2. Printer Profile
First, you need to create your printer profile in slicer software. Many different consumer’s printers companies already gave their printer profile in the slicer but if you use custom build so you need to do this.
- Select the custom option from the printer.
- Add Printer maximum travel distance for all axes.
- Select Bed Type.
- Chose G-code type.
- Add Print-head dimensions.
- Add height difference between nozzle and z-axis in gantry height.
- Also, add extruder offset if needed.
Start g-code and End G-code
Start g-code run before every print while End g-code run after every print.
This will be added when I figure it out for the duet wifi
If you know the g-code language then you can add them as your need but if you don’t know about g-code then leave them as they or you internet for the best g-code commands to start or end the print.
Step 3. Import STL File
After configuring the printer profile, import your STL file from the import option in the slicer. you see your model in the slicer.
Before you click on the slice button you have to do some more configuration according to your print
- Select Material Type.
- Select print speed.
- Chose Gradient infill (It save your time and filament).
- Add Support.
- Select Adhesion type according to your filament type
Step 4. Slicing
After setting everything click on slice
- Put that file in your printer SD card.
- Insert the SD card in the printer (In Marlin Firmware).
- Power on the printer.
- In LCD navigate to SD card here you can see your files.
Final updates and settings
The final thing I wanted to try was adding the 2nd Z axis screw
This install has 2 methods of wiring. The kit comes with a splitter but the Duet2 has both a serial port and you can put the wiring to a separate driver (E1). The benefit of the latter option is the software can drive the 2 motors separate allowing for tilting the bet to get it level
What needs to be here is the code to input for the bedleveling. Working on it. The install uses the separate driver